Hyacinth, also known as daffodils or multi-color daffodils, is scientifically named *Hyacinthus orientalis*. It is a perennial herb belonging to the Liliaceae family, characterized by its bulb. Native to regions in Africa, Europe, and Asia Minor, this plant thrives in cool climates with high humidity and full sunlight. Hyacinths are relatively cold-tolerant and require well-drained, loose, and fertile sandy soil. They should be planted in areas that avoid heavy, wet soils.
The bulbs of hyacinths are typically rounded or flat, covered with a thin membrane that can be blue-violet, pink, or white. The color of the membrane often corresponds with the flower color. The leaves are basal, usually 4–6 in number, lance-shaped, with a rounded tip, thickened, and glossy. The flowering stems can reach 20–45 cm in height, hollow, and bear racemes with more than 20 flowers. Each flower is needle-like, drooping or slanting, with a slightly swollen base and 4–6 lobes that curl outward. The flowers come in various colors, including red, yellow, pink, white, black, and purple.
Propagation is mainly done through bulb division, typically planted between September and October. For varieties that do not divide easily, bulb cuttings can be used. The bulbs are cut radially, dried for 1–2 hours, then flattened. After drying, small bulblets develop from the cuts and can be separated and replanted in September or October. Seed propagation is another method, but it takes 4–5 years before the plants bloom.
In open field cultivation, hyacinths need sufficient base fertilizer. Methods like hoe planting or trench planting can be used. The soil should be about twice the height of the bulb, and proper watering is essential after planting. Covering the bulbs in winter helps them survive and promotes strong root development for the following year’s bloom. A top dressing should be applied before and after flowering—before flowering to encourage blooming, and after flowering to support bulb growth and branching. Once the foliage yellows in early summer, the bulbs are dug up, dried, and stored in a cool place.
For potted hyacinths, choose large, healthy bulbs and plant them in September. Place them in sunny locations and move them indoors when temperatures drop in January, keeping them at 5–10°C to encourage root growth. Gradually increase the temperature to promote shoot development. When the leaves grow tall, raise the temperature further and provide plenty of light to ensure strong, healthy growth and flowering.
Hyacinths can also be grown in water. Use wide-mouthed glass bottles, placing bulbs slightly larger than the bottle opening on top. Once roots develop, they will extend into the water. After about a month, moss can be added. Change the water every 3–4 days during the growing period. Alternatively, bulbs can be placed directly in narcissus pots, similar to daffodils.
Common diseases include leaf spot, which spreads through infected bulbs. Symptoms include yellow-green streaks on the leaves, and severe cases lead to wilting. Infected plants should be removed and destroyed. Sclerotinia, caused by bacteria entering through the bulb, starts with oily lesions and turns gray or brown over time. Prevention involves spraying 50% Protopine wettable powder diluted 500 times or 50% carbendazim wettable powder diluted 600 times. Soft rot is another concern.
As an important spring bulb flower, hyacinths bloom early, are compact, and ideal for ornamental use in pots, flower beds, garden scenes, or along lawn edges. Commonly cultivated types include Spanish hyacinths and Roman hyacinths.
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