In the fall, the flower buds of Cymbidium orchids stop growing, and the base begins to swell. The old pseudobulbs that have developed folds will gradually become smooth again. By the end of October, the older leaves will transition from dark green to a darker brown color, signaling the end of the vegetative growth phase. At this point, the orchid enters the critical period of flower bud differentiation. It's important to keep them in a well-lit area, but avoid direct, intense sunlight. Good air circulation is also essential during this time.
Watering and fertilization should remain consistent with summer practices. Make sure to water thoroughly and on a regular schedule—once in early autumn and once in late autumn. However, when nighttime temperatures drop, avoid watering in the evening to prevent root issues. Fertilize once a week using a liquid fertilizer rich in phosphorus and potassium to support healthy development. As the weather cools down, it’s crucial to provide proper insulation. Move your orchids indoors or to a warmer location before the temperature drops too low to protect them from cold damage.
Once inside, the orchids may face challenges due to reduced ventilation, which can increase the risk of pests and diseases. Therefore, take preventive measures such as monitoring for any signs of infestation or illness. Additionally, it's important to remove any unwanted leaf buds. Normally, from September to October, flower buds begin to form at the base of new growths. However, many leaf buds may also appear, which can compete with the flower buds for nutrients. Carefully identify and remove these leaf buds, but be cautious not to remove true flower buds. Allow the newly emerging leaf buds to grow slightly first, so you can determine whether they are actually flower buds or just leaves before making any removal decisions.
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