In the fall, the flower buds of Cymbidium orchids stop growing, and the base of the plant begins to develop. The old pseudobulbs that have developed folds will gradually become smooth again. By late October, the older leaves will change color from dark green to a darker brown, signaling the end of the vegetative growth phase. At this point, the orchid enters the critical period of flower bud differentiation. It's important to place the plant in a well-lit area, but direct sunlight should be avoided. Good air circulation is also essential to maintain healthy growth.
Watering and fertilizing should continue as they did during the summer. Make sure to water thoroughly and on a regular schedule—once in early autumn and once in late autumn. However, when nighttime temperatures drop, avoid watering in the evening to prevent root rot. Fertilization should be done once a week using a liquid fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium to support the development of flower buds. As the weather cools down, it's crucial to provide adequate insulation. Move the orchids indoors or to a warmer location before the temperature drops too low.
Once inside, the orchids may face challenges due to poor ventilation, which can lead to pests and diseases. Therefore, it’s important to take preventive measures, such as checking regularly for signs of infestation. Additionally, removing unwanted leaf buds is necessary. Normally, from September to October, flower buds begin to form at the base of new growth. However, many leaf buds may also appear, which can compete with the flower buds for nutrients. These leaf buds need to be carefully identified and removed. But keep in mind that newly emerging leaf buds should be allowed to grow a bit first to determine whether they are true flower buds or just leaves. Only then should you proceed with the removal to ensure the health and blooming potential of your orchids.
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