Summer pruning of grapevines is an essential complement to winter pruning, typically carried out from May to August when the plants are in their most active growth phase. This process is usually done 4 to 5 times throughout the season. The main objective of summer pruning is to balance the plant's vegetative growth with fruit production, control apical dominance, reduce unnecessary nutrient consumption, improve air circulation and light penetration, and ultimately enhance fruit development and flower bud formation. The key aspects of summer pruning include:
At the time of bud break, shoots should be pinched back to encourage better growth and prevent overcrowding. In areas prone to late frost, this can be delayed by 15 to 20 days. Bud rubbing involves removing excess shoots, especially on the trunk, main arms, side branches, and any unwanted shoots that appear at the base. This helps minimize nutrient waste and promotes a more structured vine.
Shoots are generally pruned when they reach a length of 10 to 20 cm, allowing for early observation of inflorescence development. For trellis systems, about 6 to 10 shoots per square meter are maintained, while for framework types, around 20 to 25 shoots per square meter are recommended.
When tendrils grow to about 30 to 40 cm, their tips should be guided onto the support structure to prevent damage from wind or fruit weight. As new shoots elongate, the vines need to be tied 2 to 4 times, while fruiting shoots should be tied 1 to 2 times. Tendrils that wrap around branches not only hinder growth but also consume valuable nutrients; they should be removed promptly to maintain vine health.
Pinching back the growing tips, along with removing auxiliary shoots, can significantly improve flowering and fruit set. The ideal time for top pruning is when the flower clusters begin to spread out, leaving 10 to 12 leaves from the base upward—this means leaving 7 leaves above the top cluster. For nutrient management, a 10-leaf topping is recommended. Auxiliary shoots, which are non-fruiting vines that sprout from vegetative buds, compete for nutrients and can lead to excessive density. Unless there are empty spaces, all such shoots should be removed. Additionally, the last top shoot should have at least one leaf left to avoid forcing dormant buds to grow during winter. Secondary shoots should also be managed multiple times throughout the season.
For varieties like Rosette and Kyoho, where the spike length is relatively short, the tip of the spike should be removed 3 to 5 days before flowering, cutting it back to 1/4 to 1/5 of its original length. For long-spiked varieties, the entire spike may need to be removed. At the same time, due to the plant’s energy allocation, too many small flower clusters should be thinned out to focus resources on the best ones, resulting in larger and higher-quality Fruits.
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